Sump pump installation

At a glance

Pit liner

Perforated or solid liner set below the slab

Pump type

Submersible with a vertical or tethered float

Discharge

To grade, away from the foundation, with a check valve

Backup

Battery or water-powered units optional

Where it fits

The pit goes at the low point of the basement where the foundation drains can feed it. In older Etobicoke homes those weeping tiles were often tied directly into the sewer; disconnecting them and redirecting to a sump is part of many flood-protection upgrades.

• We check the pipe layout under the slab so the pit actually collects the water it is meant to.

The pump and the plumbing

We set a submersible pump with a float that has room to move, add a check valve so the discharge column does not drain back, and run the outlet through the wall above grade. A discharge pipe that dumps right next to the foundation simply recirculates the same water.

• The pump gets its own outlet.
• Sharing its breaker with the deep freeze or the dehumidifier risks a tripped breaker during a storm.

Backups and alarms

Power outages often come with the storms that fill the pit. A second pump on a battery, or simply an alarm that shrieks when the water climbs, gives you time to act. We discuss what fits your basement rather than adding equipment for the sake of it.

• Test the pump each spring by pouring a bucket into the pit and seeing it cycle.

Signs to watch for

• Damp patches on the basement floor after rain
• Water seeping where the wall meets the floor
• Foundation drains tied into the sewer
• Downspouts close to the walls
• An old pump that runs constantly

How the job runs

1. Find the low point

   We trace the drains to pick the pit location.

2. Break and dig

   The slab is cut and the pit liner set.

3. Install pump and discharge

   Pump, check valve and outlet line go in.

4. Test cycle

   We fill the pit and confirm the pump switches on and off cleanly.